Fork In Review

Jan Hume

Chicken Today… And Every Day

Fast-Food-1999 Nyoman Masriadi.jpg!Blog

In March 2012 there was a news story about what Australians eat. Chicken topped the list of meats we consume according to the Meat & Livestock Association 2010-11.

About the same time another news story was published about the unsanitary behaviour of a large chicken processor in NSW. The allegation was that packaged chicken unsold by a large retailer was returned, re-packaged and sent to another large retailer. And vice versa. Here’s a tongue in cheek news story:

Chicken Today… And Every Day

Sydney, Tuesday:  A scuffle broke out at a take-away food stall in the central business district of Sydney this week, when a customer asked for a dish in which chicken was not the main ingredient.

The customer asked for any other meat in his take-away lunch, and the vendor took offence, as he maintained that “Everyone orders chicken”.

The crowd waiting to be served was irritated at the interruption of this customer, and one agreed with the vendor that “Everyone orders chicken”. Someone tackled him, but they were separated.

The customer’s controversial request prompted the vendor to display his bain marie full of different chicken dishes. Available dishes were: Thai Chilli Chicken, Thai Red Chicken Curry, Roasted Chicken with Sweet Chilli Sauce, Black Bean Chicken, Malaysian Chicken Curry, Chicken and Vegetable Stir-Fry, Chicken with Noodles, Nasi Goreng with Chicken, Chicken Satays, Thai Chicken with Basil, and Chicken Tikka.

“I used to serve Beef and Black Bean and Sweet and Sour Pork, but we hardly sold any of it. So I took them off the menu”, explained the vendor.

Asked what the dissatisfied customer should do, the vendor said, “He should take his own lunch to work. There is no place for people trying to make trouble in public food courts”.

“We’re absolutely delighted” said a spokesman for the Australian Chicken Meat Federation. “We won’t be satisfied until we dominate the retail end of the market”.

On his advice we investigated take-away stalls selling cuisines other than Asian.

In the same food court was another vendor who sold Chicken Parmigiana, Roast Chicken with Stuffing and Gravy, Chicken Caesar Salad, Pasta with Chicken and Vegetables, Deep Fried Chicken Nibbles, Chicken and Salad Rolls, Chicken Tikka and Yoghurt Wraps, Chicken Foccacias, and not much of anything else. “No one orders anything else” is the same refrain.

When asked if he saw any similarity with the spam sketch by Monty Python, the Federation spokesman said, “That’s a cheap shot. If Australians prefer chicken, that should be taken seriously. It’s good for the economy”.

Finally, at the charge of being a boring choice he responded emphatically:

“No, you can have chicken with anything. Just go to any take-away and have a look”.

The Food Game

The further we progress, the more apparent becomes the wisdom of the Masters of the Universe in describing the food markets as a game of musical chairs. The most perceptive analysis the trader can do is to sit around until someone else believes it too, because the object of the game is not just to faithfully purchase, say, soya beans, but to do it before everyone else does. Value is not just inherent in the soya beans, but must be perceived as having value by others.

This implies that in trading, one must develop a sense of timing. One could read a recipe on how long it takes to cook soya beans, or trade them, but it wouldn’t teach you as much as being thrown into a kitchen and told to get on with it.

That’s about it really. Some traders and retailers want their goods seasonally; some want to interact with interest rates, exchange rates, future contracts, and tax advantages. Some become obsessed with the future of technology, and others just want the nice old-fashioned romance of organically pure produce.

If you are selling the right product at the wrong time, you’re still right, but you will have to wait a long time before the market readjusts in your favour. This is better than coming in late, and even better than being on the dance floor when the music stops.

If what you’re doing as a trader or retailer doesn’t seem to be working, the game may not be on, though the brokers continue to send you recommendations to buy or sell. As a cautionary note, this game is characterized by international intrigue, marketing and public relations skill, lust, greed, piracy, and domestic politics. The players are multinational chemical companies, agri-businesses, supermarket chains, consumer organisations, trade commissions, as well as politicians and scientists with the vision of seeing their names up in neon lights for posterity.

It’s a private game, where the results are pre-ordained. Consumers are meant to lose so that the big players can win. This is done by producers and manufacturers omitting to ask them what they want in their food products. If market research was undertaken to find out, they would be affronted by the inconvenience of the results.

Also, there has been no real public debate in Australia or New Zealand regarding the wider issue of safe foods. You can bet it would be more likely if the consumers had access to reliable information; they would then understand that consuming food is a small area of their lives, which they can control.

However there are structural factors which have a large impact, such as the role of marketing, which includes advertising and public relations. There are economic, class and cultural aspirations, as well as food choice, which are circumscribed by the lines available at retail outlets.  Another important factor is lack of knowledge about origins of food and its preparation.

Food taboos, as a form of control, came about because, historically, people learnt the hard way that some foods killed their friends and families. This knowledge became widespread, and so did the application of possible antidotes. The point is that they had to find out for themselves, and pass this knowledge around, bush telegraph-style. This was the precursor of consumer watchdog groups.

Over time, our western lifestyles changed. As a result of industrialisation, we live more sedentary lives, and not all of us enjoy a high income and stress-free lives.

We eat more feast-day foods everyday, as well as too much fat, sugar and salt, according to nutritionists.

There is now quite a distance between food producers and consumers. Consumers have little or no knowledge about the food they eat. In the past, chefs have used artifice in the preparation of foods, which has engendered distrust in the consumer who thinks, “What are they trying to hide?”.  In turn, the consumer has become used to food being disguised, and so a dependency has been created on artifice and appearance.

It has become advantageous for producers to maintain this knowledge gap, so that their product is not questioned.

With the industrialisation of food production, the range of crops and stock has been reduced to almost a monoculture. Six or seven decades ago, when organic production was so normal that it wasn’t called organic, the variety of crops and animals would have been sustainable, and reasonably self-sufficient. Since then, short cuts, chemicals and quick fixes have become the norm, so that now, organic farming is perceived as unconventional.

These practices are pragmatic and expedient in the short-term only. For example, manufacturers of pesticides and herbicides have created a dependency because their products are easy to use, cheap, high-yielding, and have a better appearance. Farmers are squeezed by banks to increase production in order to service debt. They are also squeezed by meat companies and retailers to take low prices, which forces farmers to cut the costs of production, and keep the shareholders happy. Farmers are also feeding their animals foods manufactured from dubious sources. All these practices are aided by marketers who are paid to put the best gloss on the products, and support the artificial appearance. Millions of dollars are invested to maintain this as the status quo.

Alongside the snappy marketing and efficient production methods, disasters and scandals relentlessly occur. Just round up all the acronyms: DDT, BSE, CJD, GE or GM foods, as well as spray drift, are symbolic of what’s wrong with intensive farming. In the public’s mind, if only they knew, the concept of animals feeding on products made of themselves is an unnatural distortion, or a malaise, in itself.

Farmland is now being used to grow crops for biofuels, a questionable use of a good resource.

In the light of this, there seems to be lack of consideration for what and how much food we actually waste. This drives food prices higher; the price spikes are coming from widespread speculation and volatility, so food commodities are viewed as an asset class. And at the moment, the grain companies do insider trading because they’re hedging their risk as traders of a commodity. They often claim that there are glass walls between their investment divisions and their trading business.

The Australia-US Free Trade Agreement has unfortunate side effects. The US government has identified some Australian agricultural and environmental policies as barriers to trade which they want changed, e.g. labelling of genetically engineered food. The US government also want an investor-state dispute process, which would give US companies the right to sue Australian governments for damages if health or environmental laws harmed their investments. The investor-state dispute processes give corporate investors rights to challenge government laws and policy and sue governments for damages if they believe their investments have been harmed. These disputes are heard by trade tribunals which prioritise the interests of the investor, rather than to the public interest.

This alone has made consumers realise that they have been duped, and has caused some consumers to question what they’re eating. When there’s a crisis of risk versus trust, consumers will naturally search for alternative foods, there is an increase in consumer awareness, and a demand for labelling. This is the contemporary equivalent of the food taboo.

All these things to consider before the food arrives on your plate.

The Roles of Food

This is a tongue in cheek piece about food trends:

Good morning all. Welcome to the Secret Society of Restaurant Reviewers. You may be aware that this occasion was brought about because there is a palpable need to extend the roles of food in the leisure market. I will give you a few ideas and opinions of my own to start the ball rolling. Then I would like us to break into groups according to the colour on your name tags. We need to discuss the different roles of food, and come up with a SWOT analysis. After our gourmet lunch kindly sponsored by the Shipped Sheep Company, we will develop a marketing plan from your brilliant ideas.

Recently, restaurant critics have dished out their hats for best restaurants in various categories. Best metropolitan, regional, steak house, Chinese, French, Italian, Japanese, bistro, café etc. Each year, as you know, some lose a hat and others gain one.

These reviews are dissected according to criteria: décor, ambiance and food, service and wine list. In the annual wrap, there’s usually a mention of current food trends such as the fashion for pork belly, watercress, scallops, Wagyu beef, King Island chickens, king fish, Kipfler potatoes, rhubarb, and rattan chairs. And a quick run-down of openings, closures, resignations and launches of celebrity chefs.

There is sometimes a mention of liberties taken with menu-speak, for example, wild mushrooms which are no more feral than a sack of spuds. And truffle oil which is manufactured rather than extracted from a lump of freshly dug fungus.

It is possible to assert that a few more liberties have been taken with the role of food, beyond the role of food as a hat, as we have seen with the recent restaurant awards. Now, as we all know, these conventional criteria have become habituated and tired. We need new categories, in order to increase the sales of our food guide.

Critics have overlooked the role the following have to play: food as celebrity chef, food as décor etc. A few of us got talking over a bottle of champagne recently and came up with these new categories which we feel need to be put on a more formal footing.

The first one is food as celebrity chef. This can be determined by the number of hats awarded, and how many column inches and photos. We need to be aware of potential allegations of publicity push and puffery. Some diners are only interested in eating ”big names”.

Food as décor. We need to reward those restaurateurs who have spent a lot of capital on fit-outs and décor, as it is obvious that customers appreciate the look and style of the venue. It has been surveyed, albeit somewhat unscientifically, that the punters think it makes the food taste better.

News flash – the latest must-have restaurant furniture are high stools, creating a less formal and chatty milieu. The punters can watch the barman or chef at work and tell them how to do their job, guaranteed to cement cordial customer relations. Restaurateurs like it because it provides more profitable turnover of bums on seats.

Food as work of art. Many chefs understand that customers at the high end of the leisure market appreciate design on their plates. These chefs are painstaking and need to be rewarded for their forensic attention to detail. It’s amazing how various elements of food can be articulated Lego-like on the plate. Diners show their appreciation by snapping it with their brand new digital cameras, knowing that waiters don’t mind having their busy service blocked by an artist at work.

Food as democracy. A few chefs actually like to go out of their way to please their customers. For these chefs, the menu is really a concept so that customers can choose their desired dish, then the sauce and ingredients from another dish on the menu. And they are free to have their fillet steak very well done, in spite of the ruinous effect on the meat. And request a sauce that they used to serve in the Seventies.

Food as television. We feel that when chefs produce food in a restaurant, they need to be given an extra reward for doing it on TV. The viewer has the pleasure of a vicarious meal, which is a bonus when dieting – based on the principle that less is more.

Food as game show. It is a relatively new category which is a derivative concept – inspired by other game shows plus a pinch of foods as hats and food as sport. What we need to do is closely observe “The Iron Chef”, then organise talks with a media company, and toss around a few concepts to our own Australian chefs’ cook-off. We need to support the participants as the pressure is huge. Some have criticized this as professional wrestling dressed up as a cooking show, very hammed up. But look at the opportunities for product placement.

Here’s the latest news flash – this is really exciting – food as a truck: if you are desperately looking for something to eat after a show, walk around town until you find a truck. A lot of restaurants are reluctant to serve late blow-ins, and a bit competition might provide some focus for them. If Asians can serve food from bikes and trailers, then so can we.

Now before we break up into our groups, I suggest we have a coffee break.